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Nepal
Geography
The Kingdom of Nepal covers an area of 147,181 square kilometers,
and stretches 145-241 kilometers north to south and 850
kilometers west to east. The country is located between
India in the south and China in the north. At latitudes
26 and 30 degrees north and longitudes 80 and 88 degrees
east, Nepal is topographically divided into three regions:
the Himalaya to the north, the hills consisting of the Mahabharat
range and the Churia Hills, and the Terai to the south.
Elevations are varied in the kingdom. The highest point
is Mt. Everest (8848 m) in the north and the lowest point
(70 meters above sea level) is located at Kechana Kalan
of Jhapa District. Altitude increases as you travel south
to north To the north temperatures are below - 40 degrees
Celsius and in the Terai, temperatures rise to 40 degrees
Celsius in the summer. During June, July and August, the
kingdom is influenced by monsoon clouds.
Official Name: Kingdom of Nepal
Abbreviation: NP
Date of Unification: 1769 (by Prithvi Narayan Shah)
Head of State: His Majesty King Gyanendra Bir Bikram
Shah Dev
Political System: Multiparty Democracy with constitutional
Monarchy.
Capital: Kathmandu
Area: 147,181 sq. km.
Population: 23.2 million approx.
Time Zone: + 5.45 GMT
Religion: Hinduism and Buddhism
Unit of Currency: Rupee
History
For centuries the Kingdom of Nepal was divided into many
principalities. Kirats ruled in the east, the Newars in
the Kathmandu Valley, while Gurungs and Magars occupied
the mid-west. The Kirats ruled from 300 BC and during their
reign, emperor Ashoka arrived from India to build a pillar
at Lumbini in memory of Lord Buddha. The Kirats were followed
by the Lichhavis whose descendants today are believed to
be the Newars of the Kathmandu Valley. During this period,
art thrived in Nepal and many of the beautiful woodcarvings
and sculptures that are found in the country belong to this
era. With the end of the Lichhavi dynasty, Malla kings came
to power in 1200 AD and they also con tributed tremendously
to Nepal's art and culture. However, after almost 600 years
of rule, the kings were not united among themselves and
during the late 11th century, Prithvi Narayan Shah, King
of Gorkha, conquered Kathman du and united Nepal into one
kingdom. Recognizing the threat of the British Raj in India,
he dismissed European missionaries from the country and
for more than a century, Nepal remained in isolation. During
the mid-I 9th century Jung Bahadur Rana became Nepal's first
prime minister to wield absolute power. He set up an oligarchy
and the Shah Kings remained figureheads. The Ranas were
overthrown in a democracy movement of the early 1950s. Today,
Nepal enjoys a multi party democratic system with a constitutional
Monarch.
The Himalaya
The Himalayan range makes up the northern border of the
country  and
represents 16% of the total land area of Nepal. Peaks like
Mt. Everest (8.848 m), Kanchenjunga (8.598 m), and Dhaulagiri
(8137 m) are found here and sparse vegetation is found up
to 4.500 m. Some of Nepal's most beautiful animal and plant
life are also found here. Although rare, the snow leopard
and Danphe bird are much talked about sights among visitors.
The people in this region produce and sell cheese besides
working as porters and guides. Many also trade with Tibet
and travel across the border to sell their goods.
The hills
This region covers 65% of the total land area of the country.
 Kathmandu,
the capital of Nepal is located here. Elevations range from
500 to 3.000 m above sea level. During summer the temperature
reaches an average of 32 degrees Celsius. Winters are cold,
temperature reaching - 1 degree Celsius sometimes. Areas
in the eastern hills receive more rainfall because of the
monsoon clouds, which come from the southeast. The rivers
in the west, which do not receive much rainfall, are dependent
upon the melted snow that flows down the Himalaya. Wild
animals to be found here are the spotted leopard, barking
deer, and Himalayan black bear. The hilly region is also
popular for different kinds of birds. Over four hundred
species of birds are found here. The people in this region
have gained from the growth in the tourism industry. The
people here work as trekking guides and porters and also
sell garments and carpets to add to their income.
Terai
The Terai covers 17% of the total land area of Nepal. It
provides excellent farming land and the average elevation
of flatlands is 100 to 300 m above sea level. Sub-tropical
forest areas, marshes, and wildlife, which include the Royal
Bengal tiger, one-horned rhino, and the garial crocodile,
are found here. After the eradication of malaria in the
1960s, many people migrated to the Terai in search of farming
land. Today, about 48% of the country's population occupies
this region. Flat farmlands and the region's flexible topography
have given rise to many industries. The main industrial
towns are Biratnagar, Butwal, Bhairawa, Birgunj, and Janakpur.
Calcutta, a metropolitan city in India is the closest seaport.
It lies 1,000 kilometers away from Birgunj.
The People
People, Culture, and Languages
In Nepal, ethnical cultural groups are diverse and many
of them  have
their own languages and customs. However, they can be geographically
categorized according to their habitats. The Sherpas who
are of Tibeto-Burman stock mainly occupy the higher hills
of eastern and central Nepal. The SoIu Khumbu region, where
the world's tallest peak Mt. Everest stands, is inhabited
by Sherpas. Generally they are Buddhist but some follow
the Bon, the pre-Buddhist religion of Tibet, and other religions.
The Sherpas are famed for their valor and mountaineering
skills and are professionally involved in many mountain
Peak Climbing. Today. Sherpas have joined other occupations
as well, like business, administration and politics.
A wide variety of ethnic groups occupy
the mid-hills. The Kirats or Limbus and Rais inhabit the
east. During the 7th century BC, they established a dynasty
in the Kathmandu Valley and ruled it for 1.000 years. They
are not originally Hindus or Buddhists but are ancestor
worshipers. However, today, many embrace Hinduism. In the
former days, they were warriors and skilled hunters. The
Kirats speak Tibeto-Burman languages. Many serve in the
British Army today and have earned a reputation as the brave
Gurkhas.
The population of the Kathmandu Valley
consists mostly of  Newars.
They speak Nepalbbasa and practice Hinduism and Buddhism.
Many families celebrate both Hindu and Buddhist festivals.
Their culture also reflects tantrism and animism. Newars
are accomplished in commerce and most enterprises in the
heart of the Valley are run by them. Historically, they
are well known for establishing the three artistically beautiful
cities of Patan, Bhaktapur and Kathmandu.
The inhabitants of the hill flanks surrounding
Kathmandu Valley are mostly Tamangs, who make up one of
the largest Tibeto-Burman ethnic groups in the Kingdom.
In the Tibetan language, Tamang means "horse soldier"
which gives us an idea about their past occupation. Today,
they farm and work as semi-skilled and unskilled laborers.
Tamangs practice Tibetan Lamaism or the Bon religion and
speak their own language.
The Magars live in the western and central
hills of Nepal. They had their own kingdoms until the 18th
century and were closely associated with the Hindu Indo-Aryans
in the west. Much of their cultural practices have been
influenced by Chhetris, and today it is difficult to make
any difference in the housing, dressing and farming practices
of the two. The Magars have been sought after by the British
and Indian armies and a great number serve in the Gurkha
regiments.
Another ethnic group closely resembling
the Magars in many aspects are the Gurungs. They also live
in the western and central hills of the country although
further to the east. Of Tibeto-Burman stock, the Gurungs
have their own distinct language and practice shamanism.
Many find employment in the British and Indian armies.
 The
Khas are the Bahuns and Chhetris who formed their own kingdoms
in the far-west. They are Hindus, and Nepali, which is the
country's official language, was originally spoken by the
Khas. Traditionally, the Bahuns were priests and are better
educated than most ethnic groups. In fact, many occupy important
government and educational posts in the kingdom today. The
Chhetris have traditionally been known as warriors. Those
living in the higher hills in the far western region lead
hard lives because of lack of rain and farming is practiced
in the river valleys and on the hill flanks.
The Tharus are one of the original ethnic
groups to inhabit the Terai. The Majhi, Danuwar, Rajbansi,
Darai, Satar, and Dhimal also occupy the flat lands. The
Tharus have their own unique religion and practice animism.
Their culture is especially suited for the hot plains and
they are actually immune to malaria. They have Mongoloid
features and speak their own language. There is much migration
going on in the country now and the cultural definition
of the people by area is difficult. Urban population is
increasing by 7% each year and most cultures have intermingled.
Religions
Religious practices are an important part of the lives of
the Nepalese people. Mythologies of various Hindu gods and
goddesses abound in this country and cultural values are
based on the philosophies of holy books like the Swasthani
Gita, Ramayana etc.
Women and children visit neighborhood shrines at dawn to
offer worship to the gods. Holding plates of rice, flowers,
and vermilion powder, they perform puja by lighting incense,
ringing the temple bell, and applying tika, a red paste,
on their foreheads. Passers by stop at temples and show
their reverence to the gods by spending a few minutes praying.
Occasionally, groups of men sit near temples playing music
and singing hyms until late night.
In Nepal, Hinduism and Buddhism are the
two main religions. The two have co-existed down the ages
and many Hindu temples share the same complex as Buddhist
shrines. Hindu and Buddhist worshipers may regard the same
god with different names while performing religious rites.
Though Nepal is the only Hindu Kingdom
in the world, many other religions like Islam, Christianity,
and Bon are practiced here. Some of the earliest inhabitants
like the Kirats practice their own kind of religion based
on ancestor worship and the Tharus practice animism. Over
the years, Hinduism and Buddhism have been influenced by
these practices which have been modified to form a synthesis
of newer beliefs.
As a result, visitors to this country
may often find the religious practices in Nepal difficult
to follow and understand. But this does not prevent one
from enjoying the idifferent traditional ceremonies and
rituals of Nepalese culture. It is indeed a totally new
experience of religious fervor.
Hinduism
 Thousands
of gods and goddesses make up the Hindu pantheon. Brahma,
Vishnu, and Shiva are he three major Hindu gods who have
heir own characteristics and incarnations. Each god has
his own steed which is often seen kneeling faithfully outside
that god's temple. Symbolic objects are carried by the multiple
ands of each deity which empowers them to perform great
feats.
Buddhism
Sakyamuni Buddha is the founder of Buddhism who lived and
taught in this part of the world during the sixth century
BC. The  great
stupas of Swayambhunath and Bouddhanath are among the oldest
and most beautiful worship sites in the Kathmandu Valley.
The spinning of prayer wheels, prostrating pilgrims, collective
chants and burning butter lamps are some Buddhist practices
often encouithtered by tourists. A slip of paper bearing
a mantra is kept inside the wheels so that prayers are sent
to the gods when the wheel is spun. Scenes from the Buddha's
life and Buddhist realms are depicted on thangka scroll
paintings which are used during meditation and prayer ceremonies.
Many Buddhist followers are seen performing these practices
in Swayambhunath, Boudanath, and at other Buddhist sites
around the Valley.
Economy
Nepal is a developing country with an agricultural economy.
In recent years, the country's efforts to expand into manufacturing
industries and other technological sectors have achieved
much progress. Farming is the main ecomic activity followed
by manufacturing, trade and tourism, The chief sources of
foreign currency earnings are merchandise export, services,
tourism and Gurkha remittances. The annual Gross Domestic
Product (GDP) is about US$ 4.3 billion.
Agriculture
Eight out of 10 Nepalese are engaged in farming and it accounts
for more than 40% of the GDP. Rolling fields and neat terraces
can be seen all over the Terai flatlands and the hills of
Nepal. Even in the highly urbanized Kathmandu Valley, large
tracts of land outside the city areas are devoted to farming
Rice is the staple diet in Nepal and around three millions
are produced annually. Other major crops are maize, wheat,
millet and barley. Besides food grains, cash crops like
sugar cane, oil seeds, tobacco, jute and tea are also cultivated
in large quantities.
Manufacturing
Manufacturing is still at the developmental stage and it
represents less than 10% of the GDP. Major industries are
woolen carpets, garments, textiles, leather products, paper
and cement. Other products made in Nepal are steel utensils,
cigarettes, beverages and sugar. There are many modem large-scale
factories but the majority are cottage or small-scale operations.
Most of Nepal's industry is based in the Kathmandu Valley
and a string of small towns in the southern Terai plains.
Trade
Commerce has been a major occupation in Nepal since early
times. Being situated at the crossroads of the ancient trans-Himalayan
trade route, trading is second nature to the Nepalese people.
Foreign trade is characterized mainly by import of manufactured
products and export of agricultural raw materials. Nepal
imports manufactured goods and petroleum products worth
about US$ 1 billion annually. The value of exports is about
US$ 315 million. Woolen carpets are Nepal's largest export,
earning the country over US$ 135 million per year. Garment
exports account for more than US$ 74 million and handicraft
goods bring in about US$ 1 million. Other important exports
are pulses, hides and skins, jute and medicinal herbs.
Tourism. In 1996, a total of 390,000
tourists visited Nepal, making tourism one of the largest
industries in the Kingdom. This sector has been expanding
rapidly since its inception in the 1950s, thanks to Nepal's
natural beauty, rich cultural heritage and the diversity
of sight-seeing and adventure opportunities available. At
one time, tourism used to be the biggest foreign currency
earner for the country. Nepal earned over US$ 116 million
from tourism in 1995.
Government
Nepal has a bicameral legislature. The lower house, the
House of Representatives, consists of 205 members. Members
to the lower house are elected every five years. The upper
house, the National Assembly, is made up of 60 members who
have a six-year tenure in office. One-third of the members
retire every two years. Fifteen members are elected by the
local government, 35 members by proportional representation,
and 10 members are nominated by the King.
Administrative
Divisions
Nepal is divided into five development regions, 14 zones,
and 75 districts. Each zone consists of four to eight districts.
Sixteen districts lie in the Himalayan region, 39 in the
hills and 20 in the Terai. The lowest local level administrative
unit is the Village Development Committee (VDC). There are
3,996 VDC's in the country.
Climate and when
to go
It's hard to generalize about the climate of a country ranging
in elevation from near sea level to Mount Everest. About
the only thing that can be said is that all but a few parts
of Nepal are governed by the same monsoonal pattern, with
temperatures varying according to elevation (see chart).
Five seasons prevail in Nepal, but these are not mere meteorological
divisions: when-ever you choose to go, you'll have to weigh
weather against other factors, both positive (mountain visibility,
festivals, wildlife) and negative (crowds, disease).
Probably half of all tourists visit Nepal
in the autumn (October to November), and for good reasons.
The weather is clear and dry, and temperatures aren't too
cold in the high country nor too hot in the Tarai. with
the air washed clean by the monsoon rains, the mountains
are at their most visible, making this the most popular
time for trekking. Two major festivals also fall during
this season. The downside, however, is that the tourist
quarters are heaving and hustly, it's hard to find a decent
room, you'll waltages for food and for trekking permits,
and people are short on ready smiles and chat.
In winter (December and January), the
snow line descends to 2.000 - 3000m and though it never
snows in Kathmandu, the "mists of India" make
the capital feel cold and clammy (especially in unheated
budget lodgings). Most travelers head down into India, leaving
the trekking routes and guest houses fairly quiet too quiet,
sometimes, as many restaurants pare down their menus for
the season.
Spring (February to mid-April) brings
warmer temperatures, longer days, weddings and more festivals.
The rhododendrons are in bloom in the hills towards the
end of this period, and in the Tarai the thatch has been
cut, making this the best time for viewing wildlife. All
of which creates another tourist crush, albeit not quite
as bad as in the autumn. The one factor that keeps people
away is a disappointing haze that obscures the mountains
from lower elevations, though it's usually possible to trek
above it.
The pre-monsoon (mid-April to early June)
is stifling at lower elevations, and dusty wind squalls
are common. People get a little edgy with the heat; this
is the time for popular unrest, but also for the Kathmandu
Valley's great rain-making festival. Trek high, where the
temperatures are more tolerable.
Nepal is welcome the monsoon (June to
September), which breaks the enervating monotony of the
previous months, and makes the fields come alive with rushing
water and green shoots. The rains rinse and renew the land.
This can be a fascinating time to visit, when Nepal is at
its most Nepali, but there are many drawbacks: mountain
views are rare, leeches come out in force along the mid-elevation
trekking routes, roads wash out, flights get canceled, and
disease runs rampant as the rising water table brings the
entire contents of Kathmandu's sewers to the surface.
Transport
Airport taxi
Tribhuwan International Airport Transport Workrs' Cooperative
operates a fixed-rate taxi service from the airport to the
city. The transport is available almost around the clock.
Contact the TIA-TWC counter near the arrival lounge exit.
The Kathamandu Airport Facilitation Service operates limousine
service from the airport to the city.The Limousine Service
counter is located inside the arrival lounge.There are also
meter taxis and other transport Services.
Around the city
Meter taxis and meter tempos can be hailed off the street.
Though they are a bit difficult to find after sundown. The
charge for meter taxis is Rs.5 at initial flag down and
then Rs.1.80 for every 200 meters. The taxi cabs of greenlines
transportation are painted green and they operate from 7
am to 8 pm. (tel:231632).Kathmandu yellow cab (tel:42 09
87) operates from 6 am till 10 pm. . Nepal Blue Cab (tel:
23 16 32) operates from 6 am till 8:30 pm. In addition,
there are many freelance taxis. A night taxi service is
available from the taxi stand at Dharma Path from 8 pm till
12 midnight. These taxis can also be summoned by telephone
for pick-up (tel: 22 34 74). Cars and drivers for sightseeing
can be hired through hotels or travels agencies.
Rickshaws
Rickshaws (two-seater tricycles) can be a fun way to see
the city. The fare should be negotiated beforehand.
Buses
There are buses, mini-buses and three-wheeler tempos that
ply on fixed routes at regular intervals. Last bus around
8 pm. City Buses as well as those going to Kirtipur, Banepa,
Dhulikhel, and Thankot leave from Tripureswor near the stadium.
Long-distance buses to different parts of Nepal leave from
the Gongabu Bus park located on the Ring Road on the north
side of town.
A comprehensive network of road &
communication are under construction in the Kingdom. Pokhara
Valley is linked with Kathmandu by a picturesque highway,
Prithvi Rajmarga. Pokhara, 200 Kilometers west from Kathmandu,
is also linked with the Indian border town of Sunauli by
another highway named Siddhartha Rajmarga. One can drive
from Kathmandu right to the far eastern border of Nepal
connecting through Mahendra Rajmarga. One can drive from
Kathmandu right to the far eastern border of Nepal connecting
through Mahendra Rajmarga also known as East-West Highway.
The interior parts of the country is also linked with a
number of motorable roads. Buses for the different parts
of the country are available at the Central Bus Terminal
which is located at Gangbu. Cars, jeeps, mini-buses and
other vehicles are also available on hire in Kathmandu.
Planes
Given Nepal's mountainous terrain, aircraft play a vital
role in the country's transport network, especially in the
west where planes are often used to carry in food during
the winter. Of the forty towns and villages with airstrips,
almost half are two or more days' walk from a road.. Most
flights begin or end in Kathmandu, but two other airports
in the Tarai - Nepalgung in the west, Biratnagar in the
east - serve as secondary hubs. Popular destinations, such
as Lukla in the Everest region, get up to six flights a
day, while obscure airstrips may receive only one flight
a week. Some operate only seasonally. In 1992, three new
airlines - Nepal Airways, Everest Air and Necon Air - joined
RNAC in providing services within Nepal.
Rentals
Cars
Private vehicles give the maximum freedom to visit remote
places at your own pace with a minimum of time and hassle.
The main drawback is cost, aggravated by the high price
of petrol. There are two rental car offices on Durbar Marg:
Hertz, represented by Gorkha Travels and Avis, represented
by AmEx representative Yeti Travels. Major hotels and travel
agencies can also arrange car rentals.
Hiring a taxi for the day is much cheaper
and seldom difficult to arrange. You'll need to discuss
your itinerary and determine the price in advance. You can
arrange for the driver to drop you off and pick you up several
hours later at the end of a day hike. Hotel staff may be
able to help you arrange a taxi, or just start asking taxis
on the street. Private cars with drivers looking for work
are usually waiting in the narrow streets but they tend
to be more expensive than taxis.
A taxi can also be hired to take you
to long-distance destinations like Pokhara, Jiri, Tansen,
Lumbini, or Chitwan, though this may require a bit of a
search for a willing driver. Sharing the cost with several
others makes this kind of travel reasonable; trekkers might
consider taking a taxi to the trailhead rather than spending
an exhausting day (or night) on the bus. Renting a taxi
is definitely cheaper than a rental car; bargain hard and
ask Nepalis to help you calculate the price.
Motorbikes
Motorcycles are available for rent at several shops who
are located on Dharma Path south of New Road, near the Frensh
House, and there are a few in Thamel. Motorbikes range from
100cc to 250 cc, the largest available. You'll need the
extra power if you're planning trips uphill with a passenger.
You're responsible for returning the bike in the same condition
you received it, so check it out carefully before taking
it. Some shops will ask for your passport as a security
deposit. A Nepal or International Driver's License is required
for motorcycle rental. If you have a valid foreign license
you can get a Nepali license within a few days from the
police station at Hanuman Dhoka. Motorcycles can be fun,
but you need to be extra cautious in the hectic traffic
of the city, and equally careful of ducks, chickens, dogs,
and children in villages. Don't be overly optimistic in
planning how much territory you can cover. Nepal's roads
are rough, and long journeys are more tiring than you might
expect. It's best to go slowly and stop for lots of tea
breaks.
Bicycles
Renting a cycle is the ideal way to get around if you're
slightly adventurous and reasonably in shape. It's also
a good way to train for a trek. Cycling's advantages are
unequaled by any other means of transport: it takes you
out in open air through the countryside, at a pace faster
than walking but still slow enough to enjoy. A clunky old
rented cycle may not be sleek, but it frees you from worrying
about theft or damage when you lock it up to go exploiring
on foot.
For a basic bike look for cycles lined
up on the pavement in Thamel, around Freak Street, and in
Bhotahiti. Rental fees are around Rs15 per day if the market
is tight but during the off-season you can easily bargain
it down. If you're renting for a full week you should get
a substantial discount no deposit is necessary, just give
your hotel name and room number.
These bikes are Indian or Chinese models,
sturdy clunkers of the type you haven't ridden since you
were a kid. Get a Chinese-made bike (Flying Pigeon and Phoenix
brands) if you can; they're better made and more comfortable
than Indian models, and worth the higher rate. In tourist
season good bikes are hard to find, so you might want to
rent one the preceding eveninig if you're planning a trip.
Check them over carefully before renting, looking for bald
or leaky tires, wobbly wheels, bad brakes, loose or uncomfortable
seats, loose chains. Good brakes and a bell are essential;
a light is nice if you'll be riding at night. Getting a
reasonable machine will save the trouble of having repairs
done out on the road.
If you do get a breakdown look for a
streetside repair shop - sometimes no more than an orange
crate, a strip of rubber, and a pump. Mechanics working
on motorcycles may also take the time to help you out and
fix your bike. Shops may have an air pump leaning against
the doorway. You can pump your own tires for a minimal charge
of one sukaa (25 paisa) per tire.
Cycles come equipped with built-in locks
on the back wheel. Only for a mountain bike will you need
more than this. At places like Swayarnbunath, children swarm
around new arrivals in a sort of blackmail, fighting for
the privilege of "watching" the bike. If you decline,
you may find your tires mysteriously deflated upon your
retum.
Alcohol
Home distillation is an ancient practice in Nepal, still
managing to hold its own against modern distilleries. The
Nepali brand-name hard liquors are best avoided. Often adulterated
with chemicals they can give a quick headache. Imported
brands are expensive. The Nepali beer market is booming,
with at least four local brands and two local licensees
on the market.
The finest alcohol is homemade stuff.
Raksi is potent, exhilarating and smooth as velvet. To test
for good raksi, toss a small amount on a fire and see if
it burns. Women of a household pride themselves on their
liquor, and will put the most effort and time into making
raksi for a big celebration like a wedding. Different grains
produce different flavors: rice raksi is rich and smooth,
kodo (millet) is stronger and more fiery.
Less potent is home-brewed beer, land
(Nepali) or chang (Tibetan), a whitish, thin drink made
from rice or millet with a refreshing sweet-sour taste.
A variation served in mountain regions is tongba, fermented
mash which is placed in a wooden container and mixed with
hot water. You drink from a bamboo straw, sipping the liquid
and avoiding the bits of millet; the hot water is refilled
several times, and nursing a flask of tongba is a nice sport
for a cold evening.
Customs and airports
Green Channel
Passengers arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA)
without any dutiable goods can proceed through the Green
Channel for quick clearance without a baggage check. If
you are carrying dutiable articles, you have to pass through
the Red Channel for detailed customs clearance.
Import
Apart from used personal belongings, visitors are allowed
to bring to Nepal free of duty cigarettes (200) or cigars
(50), distilled liquor (one 1.15 liter bottle), and film
(15 rolls). You can also bring in the following articles
free of duty on condition that you take them out with you
when you leave: binoculars, movie or video camera, still
camera, laptop computer, and portable music system.
Export
It is illegal to export objects over 100 years old (sacred
images, paintings, manuscripts) that are valued for culture
and religious reasons. Visitors are advised not to purchase
such items as they are Nepal's cultural heritage and belong
here. The Department of Archaeology (tel: 21 37 01, 21 37
02) at Ramshah Path near Singha Durbar has to certify all
metal statues, sacred paintings and similar objects before
they are allowed to be sent or carried out of the country.
Handicraft dealers and travel agents are able to assist
you in this process. For more information on customs matters,
contact the Chief Customs Administrator, TIA Customs Office;
tel: 47 01 10, 47 22 66.
Airport Tax
Passengers departing from the Tribhuvan International
Airport are required to pay an airport tax of Rs. 600 if
going to SAARC countries (Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives,
Pakistan and Sri Lanka) and Rs. 700 to all other international
destinations. Domestic airport tax is Rs. 50.
Money
The Nepali rupiyaa or rupee is issued in notes of Rs1, Rs2,
Rs5, Rs10, Rs20, Rs 50, Rs 100, Rs100 and Rs 1.000. Different
colors make them easy to distinguish, and amounts are written
in English on the back side. Small change or paisa, which
come in 5, 10,25, and 50 paisa coins and larger one-roepee
coins, is more confusing. The 25-paisa coin is called a
sukaa;the 50 paisa coin is a mohar. Only Nepali numbers
are written on them and many are so worn as to be indecipherable,
so you need to learn them by size. If you get confused,
you can always thrust a handful of change forward and have
the shopkeeper pick out the change. Coins are worth very
little, but they're handy for paying for the use of a bicycle
pump, and as donations for beggars.
Nepalis have an aversion to old, worn
bills. Shopkeepers are happy to give them as change but
are loathe to accept them, though the note is still valid.
You can smilingly insist, try slipping it in a large wad
of bills, or turn it into the old-bill window on the ground
floor of the Supermarket on New Road, a special bank branch
set up just for this purpose.
Newspapers
Despite only 40-percent literacy, Nepal boasts an astonishing
460 newspapers - an outgrowth of two noble Brahmanic traditions,
punditry and gossip. Of the handful printed in English,
only the Rising Nepal is widely circulated, and outside
Kathmandu it's always a day or more out of date. It's pretty
much a government mouthpiece, but still manages in spite
of itself to shed light on current events in Nepal. The
weekly Independent (published Wednesdays, available only
in the capital) covers issues with greater candour and depth,
but it's aimed at political insiders. Foreign publications
such as the International Herald Tribune, USA Today, Asian
Wall Street Journal, Time and Newsweek are sold in Kathmandu
and Pokhara, but nowhere else. For British newspapers, try
the British Council in Kathmandu.
Radio & Television
The government-run Radio Nepal is by far the most influential
of the nation's media, catering to the illiterate majority
of Nepalis and reaching villages well beyond the reach of
any newspaper. With a daily format of traditional and pop
music, news bulletins, English language lessons, dramas
and development messages, it has been a powerful force for
cultural and linguistic unity, though demands by various
ethnic groups for programming in their native tongues has
recently become a hot political topic. The station carries
English-language news bulletins daily at 8 am and 8 pm,
and relays the BBC World Service in Kathmandu from 11pm
to 12.15am. If you're traveling with a short-wave radio,
you can pick up the World Service at 15.31, 11.75 and 9.74MHz.
Nepal-Tv, with transmitters in Kathmandu,
Pokhara and Biratnagar, broadcasts Nepali and Indian shows
mainly in the early morning and evening, with the news in
English at 9.40pm -check the daily schedule in the Rising
Nepal
STAR satellite TV, out of Hong Kong,
beams MTV, BBC World Service TV and various American reruns.
Medical Treatment
Hospitals
Kathmandu has the country's best medical facilities, but
for anything serious you'll want to fly to Bangkok or back
home. Nepali hospitals are crowded and very basic. For most
illnesses consult a Nepali doctor or visit a private clinic.
CIWEC Clinic (tel. 410-983) in Baluwatar near the Russian
Embassy is staffed by Western physicians and nurses and
provides competent care, but a visit is expensive by Nepali
standards, $25 plus lab fees. Nepal International Clinic
(tel. 412-842) across from the Royal Palace is run by a
Nepali doctor who studied in Canada. Both clinics have a
doctor on-call after hours for emergencies. Kalimati Clinic
near the Soaltee Oberoi Hotel (tel. 270-923) is open 1300-1430
Mon. and Fri., Wed. 10.00-11.30 and 13.30-14.30. It offers
immunizations, including gamma globulin and post-exposure
rabies vaccine, but doesn't generally diagnose illnesses.
For emergency treatment, hospitalization,
and surgery the best facility is Patan Hospital in Lagankhel
(tel. 522-2781522-295). Also known as Shanta Bhawan, it
was founded and is still partially supported by the United
Mission to Nepal. There's also an inexpensive dental clinic
here. Next choice is the Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital
in Maharajganj (tel. 412-3031412-404). Avoid the government-run
Bir Hospital near the Tundhikhel (tel. 221-9881221 -119);
it has expensive high-tech equipment like a Catscan but
a chronic shortage of drugs and basic supplies.
In Pokhara, ill travelers should visit
the Western Regional Hospital (tel. 20066), which does stool
tests and provides treatment Larger Terai towns and district
centers may have a government hospital, but out trekking,
medical care is basically up to you-a good reason to carry
medical essentials and be familiar with them.
Pharmacies
Plenty of pharmacies are scattered about town, the biggest
on New Road and near hospitals. If your problem is uncomplicated
you may want to get an inexpensive stool test at one of
Kathmandu's local labs and doctor yourself. No prescriptions
are necessary and you can get a wide range of inexpensive
medication, most of it made in India.
Ayurvedic medicines based on the ancient Indian system of
herbal remedies are frequently used. An Ayurvedic practitioner
popular with Westerners is Dr. Mana Bajracharya, whose office
is behind the Mahaboudha stupa in a warren of buildings
behind Bir Hospital. Tibetan medicine with its thousands
of herbal-based remedies is also popular; the largest concentration
of Tibetan doctors is in Boudhanath.
Helicopter rescue
For serious medical emergencies when a patient can't walk
or be carried out, a helicopter rescue can be arranged through
the Royal Nepalese Army or by a private company. The service
is expensive and must be paid for by the rescue. Your embassy
or trekking agency may vouch for you but they won't pick
up the tab a good reason to arrange for comprehensive trip
insurance beforehand.
The helicopter company's must receive
assurance of payment before it dispatches a flight. This
will be provided by your trekking agency if you're with
a group; embassies usually provide this for their citizens,
but they may need to contact the family in advance. Registering
at your embassy be fore a trek greatly expedites this process.
Once the helicopter takes off, you're liable for the costs
even if it doesn't find you.
Books and Bookstores
Kathmandu is an international center for books on Himalayan
regions, especially Nepal and Tibet There are probably 200
titles on Nepal and just as many on Tibet and Vajrayana
Buddhism. other regional specialties include mountaineering
the Himalaya, Tantrism, Hinduism, India and Asian travel
accounts by Westerners, plus dozens of lavish photographic
books on the Himalaya, surely one of the most photographed
regions on earth.
Few travelers realize that Kathmandu's
bookstores offer bargains on new as well as used books.
Some are sold at Asian edition prices, 35-50% less than
in the West Locally published books are remarkably cheap,
and Indian editions are reasonable. You can find specialty
books long out of print or unavailable in the West. Best
of all are the many discounted books sold on remainder,
often of popular titles which are being pushed off the market
by new arrivals. You can get especially good bargains on
expensive photographic books.
Kathmandu's oldest booksellers, Ratna
Pushtak Bhandar in Bhotahiti, operates Ratna Book Distributors
in Bagh Bazaar near the French Cultural Center. They publish
Kallash and the Biblloteca Himalayica series of inexpensive
reprints of rare classics on the Himalaya. Another place
to check is Himalayan Booksellers in Bagh Bazaar (also with
a Thamel outlet). Mandala Bookpoint on Kanti Path has an
excellent selection of regional books. Pilgrim's Bookhouse
in Thamel has a vast selection with an emphasis on New Age
topics and Eastern religions. A smaller branch up the street
stocks rare books on all sorts of Asian subjects. Educational
Booksellers on the Tundikhel has a good range of Penguins,
modern fiction, and children's books, plus shelves of textbooks
and business books, including Asian editions of computer
software manuals retailing for half the Western price.
Kathmandu's used book shops are famous
for their eclectic selection provided by Western travelers.
In essence they're like a perennially rotating library;
you can sell books back for 50% of the original price and
buy more. Shelves are stocked with a genuine cross-section
of travelers reading. Generally quantity predominates over
quality; thick historical novels are popular buys for long
treks.
Souvenirs
Being a country rich in culture
and traditional art forms, Nepal has a very wide range of
souvenirs to choose from. Most are skillfully made handicrafts
with colorful designs; however, practical items such as
Nepalese clothes or folk music cassettes and records are
also popular among tourists. Some of Nepal's best known
and most popular souvenir items are listed here along with
a brief description of where to go and what to look for
when buying these items.
Thangkas
As mentioned in the section of culture, thangkas are religious
paintings usually depicting Hindu and Buddhist deities.
There are many different types and qualities of thangka
available in the Kathmandu Valley but probably the best
value for money can be found in Bhaktapur where many professional
ateliers devote their en tire time to producing hand painted
masterpieces. Besides Bhaktapur, good thangkas can also
be found in the Jhochhe, Thamel and Hanuman Dhoka areas
of Kathmandu.
Batik and Oil
Paintings
While on the subject of painting, miniature oil paintings
and batik art have become very popular over the last few
years. Batik paintings usually depict everyday village scenes
such as a girl carrying a baby on her back, porters carrying
their loads etc. Most souvenir shops have a number of different
sizes and designs, mostly unframed; it is also possible
to order one's own design if sufficient advance notice is
given.
Oil paintings have a charm of their own
and are especially successful in depicting landscapes and
mountain sceneries. An interesting variation is found in
oil paintings painted on the reverse side of the 'nanglos'
- circular hand-woven trays used by Nepalese women to sort
rice.
Yet another form of painting is found
in greeting cards and consists of oil or water colors painted
on leaves of pipal tree. The most common design shows Buddha
in meditation; bird and flower designs are also available.
Leaf greeting cards are attractively presented and usually
contain a brief description of the making process.
Carpets
After thangkas and paintings, carpets are probably Nepal's
second most popular souvenir item. As making a good carpet
requires a lot of work and materials, this can be better
understood by taking a cursory glance at the making process.
It is woven entirely by hand on huge
handlooms. Chemical dyes are also used instead of vegetable
dyes. In places such as Jawalakhel and Boudhanath it is
possible to see the entire making process.
The smallest size of carpet available
is sixteen inches square, a size usually used for chair
coverings. The price depends on whether a chemical or vegetable
dye is used in the making process. A chemical dye is cheaper
but has brighter colors, making the carpet seem slightly
less authentic even though the quality remains the same
in every other way.
The most popular size of carpet is three
feet by six feet, although longer sizes are also available.
Carpet designs vary from fire-breathing dragons to Buddhist
deities and geometric patterns. Apart from the above mentioned
areas, one can also buy carpets in the lndrachowk and Durbar
Marg areas of Kathmandu and at Mangal Bazaar in Patan.
Handicrafts
Besides carpets, a variety of other traditional and religious
items such as wooden, ivory or bronze prayer wheels, magic
amulets, prayer boxes and ritual bells, as well as practical
items like the coats, belts and buckles are also made usually
by hand. Souvenir shops are found in the shopping arcades
of most of Kathmandu's larger hotels as well as in Boudhanath,
Swayambhu and Jawalakhel.
Dolls and Puppets
Dolls and puppets are some other souvenir items that accurately
reflect Nepalese culture and lifestyles. Beautifully colored
and available in many different sizes, Nepalese dolls show
traditional costumes of different ethnic groups, often carrying,
in miniature, the tools of their trade, for example, a plough
or sickle. String puppets usually represent the masked dancers,
as one sees in the festivals like Indra Jatra or Gal Jatra.
Although available in most souvenir shops, the best place
to buy a doll or puppet is in Makhan Tote, the paved road
leading from Hanuman Dhoka to Indrachowk.
Rice Paper Prints
Like carpets and thangkas, rice paper prints are another
traditional art form that have survived the passing of centuries
and again gained popularity, this time as souvenirs rather
than religious manuscripts. Rice paper is made by hand from
rice husks and is well suited for printing purpose due to
its high absorbative properties. The actual prints, usually
of deities or religious monuments, are made by wooden blocks
rubbed with a thin layer of black ink. Nowadays colored
prints are also made, though these are naturally more expensive.
Rice paper prints can be purchased along with the wooden
blocks if required, in the Basantpur area of Kathmandu,
as well as at many souvenir shops in the Valley's three
main cities.
Nepalese Clothes
Nepalese clothes, both traditional and modern, are common
and easily available souvenirs. Beginning at the head, Nepalese
caps or 'topis' are available in the lndrachowk and Asan
areas of Kathmandu, as well as in the market areas of most
of Nepal's towns and cities. One can either buy a black
topi (popularly known as 'Bhadgaonle topi' as it was first
made in Bhadgaon) or a colorful printed cap, known here
as 'dhaka topi'.
Nepalese woolen jackets are also very
popular, especially during the colder months, and can be
purchased in most tourist shops at a reasonable price. There
is a variety of different colors and designs and although
size fittings are not given, most shopkeepers are hapy to
let potential buyers try on a number of different jackets
until they find a suitable one. As all jackets are made
by hand, it is also possible to design one's own jacket
at a tailoring shop.
Whereas jackets are suitable for both
ladies and gentlemen, pashmina shawls are mainly a ladies'
souvenir item. The name pashmina refers to the extremely
soft and warm underhair of a variety of mountain goat found
in the upper regions of Nepal.
Pashmina shawls come in different colors
and designs, the natural color being a dark ash-gray. Scarves
and mufflers of the same material are also available. For
the warmer months, cotton garments such as the traditional
daura (shirt) and suruwal (trousers) worn by the men, are
available in most bazaar areas.
Shoes and slippers complete an outfit
of the Nepalese clothes; velvet, flannel and cloth designs
are commonly found, many of them also colorfully embroidered.
Often, the soles are made of thick cord rather than the
synthetic materials one usually sees. For ladies, cotton
saris and other clothes are both cheap and attractive. Many
souvenir shops, particularly in the shopping arcades of
larger hotels, sell different varieties of silk shirts and
T-shirts with the printed designs such as traditional dragons,
temples and mountains.
Bags and Purses
Although not the traditional Nepalese items, handbags and
purses are practical and attractive souvenirs. They are
usually made of velvet, wool, cotton or leather and often
include intricate embroidery work in their designs. Another
variation on this subject is passport pouches made to hang
around the neck inside one's shirt or jacket.
Idols and Images
Miniature replicas of Nepal's many Buddhist and Hindu deities
have became one of Nepal's most famous souvenir items. Bronze
or brass images are made by a wax modeling process known
as the 'cire perdue' method. This process involves first
making a clay mould, into which the molten metal is poured.
The idol is then sanded and smoothed to remove rough edges.
A large variety of metals, as well as wood carved idols
are commonly available in most souvenir shops. Stone images
are naturally more difficult to make and are thus rarer
and more expensive. Although most of the stone and metal
images available in the shopping centers, it is forbidden
to take out of the country any artifact more than one hundred
years old without specific written permission from the Archaeology
Department. Artistically designed miniatures of Pashupati
temple, Swayambhu stupa and Krishna temple are also available
in both wood and metal. Miniature Nepalese houses are somewhat
rarer but are of equal artistic value, being made of local
materials such as wood, hay and clay.
Khukuris
Khukuris are long curved knives, made famous by Gurkha soldiers.
Khukuris are also frequently used by the villagers as an
all-purpose weapon. One can buy the khukuris in most Kathmandu
souvenir shops or alternatively at open side stalls in Basantpur,
near Hanuman Dhoka. Khukur! has different types and varieties.
The older one contains inside its sheath, two miniature
knives, one serving as a pen knife and the other as a flint
for lightening fires. Some khukuris have elaborately carved
handles and sheaths while others have plain designs. One
can also buy miniature khukurjs and khukuri brooches.
Jewelry, Ornaments
and Precious Stones
Both Nepalese and Tibetan in style and design, many different
types of pendants, bracelets, rings, earrings and bangles
can be bought in nearly all souvenir shops. These are often
adorned with such precious stones as tourmaline, garnet,
aquamarine and smoky quartz, all indigenous to Nepal. Among
other indigenous stones to Nepal are coral and turquoise,
used both in religious ceremonies and in ornaments. The
best place to buy good quality jewelry and rings inlaid
with precious stones is New Road in the central Kathmandu.
Folk Music Cassettes
and Records
As mentioned briefly in the chapter on entertainment, Ratna
Recording Corporation has, since the very beginning of its
establishment about twenty years ago, compiled and recorded
a large number and variety of instrumental and vocal folk
music cassettes and records. Although all the recordings
are in mono at present, quality and production are good.
Ratna Recording Corporation has its retail shop in Gangapath,
between Basantpur and New Road in the central Kathmandu.
Stamps and Coins
Popular as souvenirs all over the world, Nepalese stamps
and coins can be purchased in most souvenir shops, probably
the best areas of Kathmandu being New Road and Basantpur.
Though Nepalese stamps date back to 1907, many interesting
and colorful sets have since been issued, for example, mountain,
temple, flower and coronation sets to mention just a few.
Besides stamp sets, it is also possible to buy miscellaneous
sets containing fifty or one hundred stamps per packet,
either used or mint. In addition to Nepalese stamps, Mongolian,
Tibetan, Chinese and Bhutanese stamp sets are also common;
some of them are quite unique as they are made of silver
foil or silk instead of paper.Various coins of historical
interest are also available in the souvenir shops. High
quality tea products of Nepal are becoming popular among
the tourists as a typical souvenir.
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